Destination: ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Istanbul (formerly Constantinople)is the largest (and arguably the most important) city in Turkey. Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the narrow strait between the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea, Istanbul truly bridges Asia and Europe both literally and figuratively. Istanbul's population is variously estimated between 11 and 15 million people, making it also one of the largest cities in Europe.

Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait (Istanbul Bogazi), the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea.

Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoglu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Uskudar is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul.

UNDERSTAND ISTANBUL

Founded by Constantine the Great in 324 CE on the site of ancient Byzantium (going back to 650 BC), Istanbul was the capital, successively, of the Eastern Roman Empire (324-476), the Byzantine Empire (476-1453) and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922) - this almost unrivalled heritage, as well as its dynamic modern existence, makes Istanbul a fantastic destination for many travellers.

Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a thousand years the last remaining outpost of the Roman (later termed Eastern Roman or Byzantine) Empire before finally falling to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in May 29th, 1453, an event often taken to mark the end of the Middle Age.

Istanbul (once Constantinople) was the capital of Ottoman Empire until the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923, when the capital was transferred to Ankara. The name "Istanbul" was adopted officially in 1930.

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THINGS TO SEE IN ISTANBUL

The European Side

Haghia Sofia (Aya Sofya), Sultanahmet Square. Dating from the sixth century, originally a basilica constructed for the Byzantine Emperor Justinian. A masterwork of Roman engineering, the huge 30 m diameter dome covers what was for over 1000 years the largest enclosed space in the world. The basilica was looted in 1204 during the fourth Crusade, and became a mosque in the 15th century when the minarets were added. It was turned into a museum in 1930's. Don't miss the excellent mosaics, including those in the gallery, reached by a stone ramp to the left of the entrance.
Topkapi Palace. The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for three centuries. Lavishly decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur. In the second court in the entrance to the Harem (admission extra) and the State Treasury, housing a weaponry display. The third court has the Imperial Treasury (admission extra). The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphoros are spectacular.
Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque). With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or 'Blue' Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear. Free.
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici). Yerebatan Cad., Sultanahmet. It doesn't sound like much, but this giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to provide water to the city in cases of siege, and later consacrated as a basilica, is one of the most fascinating places to visit in Istanbul. A wooden walkway winds between the pillars, and lights and piped music add to the eerie atmosphere.
Galata Whirling Dervish Hall (Galata Mevlevihanesi). Galipdede Caddesi (near Tünel's Galata station). A dancing hall of the mystical Mevlevi order, shut down in 1925 along with all other 'reactionary' movements in Turkey. Today the building houses the Museum of Divan Literature, but the best time to come Sundays between 3 to 5 pm when sema dervish ceremonies are staged. (Buy tickets in advance, as space is limited.) Also check out the small graveyard next door, where the carved fez perched upon the gravestone indicates the occupant's rank in the dervish hierarchy.
Ortakoy A shore line of the bosphorus beside the Ortakoy mosque. Filled with nice cafes and a perfect view crowded and fun.
The Museum of Archeology A must see! One of the best, including a great collection of Sumerian tablets!Close to Sultanahmet.
Museum of Modern Art At Karakoy. A nice organized museum with contemporary installations.Including a cafe with a top notch menu and view.
Dolmabahce Palace See the Ottoman Palace centered close to Taksim at the Dolmabahce shore. Build on 110.000 meter square ground with 285 rooms and 43 halls where the Ottoman empire was administered in the last 150 years. Guided tours in major spoken languages available.

The Asian (Anatolian) Side

Beylerbeyi Palace Lying under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge, the palace was built between 1861-1865 by Sultan Abdulaziz. Guided tours in major spoken languages available.
Camlica Hill is one of the seven hills of Istanbul (268 metres high) and almost major broadcasting antennas are located on this hill, since the hill dominates a great part of the city. On the top of the hill, a public park with cafes remind the visitors of an Ottoman atmosphere.
The Princess Islands lies on the southeast of Istanbul, and consists of 8 islands, Buyukada being the largest of them all. Buyukada is also the highest island among the others; its peak reaches to 202 mt (Yucetepe) where the ruins of a monastry remains.

The rest of the islands are; Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kinaliada, Yassiada, Sivriada, Tavsan Adasi and Yassiada. Buyukada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred by many tourists.

THINGS TO DO IN ISTANBUL

Hamams

A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is an essential part of any trip to Istanbul.

Suleymaniye Bath. Sultan Suleyman had this Hamam built by the famous Architect Sinan in 1550. Architect Sinan build this hamam for himself. He used this hamam for washing. Suleymaniye hamam is only mixed hamam in Istanbul. There are no different section for each sex thus the families may comfortably enjoy this hamam together. Hamam also has two ways free shuttle service for the hotel guests if the booking comes through their reception. Entry 31.50 euro.
Cagaloglu Bath. The Cagaloglu hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire. It was constructed in Istanbul Eminonü.It has separated section. Entry 20 euro.
Cemberlitas Bath. The Cemberlitas Bath is located on Cemberlitas Square in the midst of some of Istanbul's greatest monuments. It was build by also Architect Sinan in 1584. It has 2 sections, female and male. Entry 15 euro.

Walking tours

Walk! Some suggestions for a couple of "walks". But there are many to be made on your own, so do.

Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Topkapi museum (these two should take care of three to five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find the Small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was under restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex: top notch tiles inside.

Take a tram or walk to Eminonü (where the boats leave for trips to Asia or up the Bosphorus). Visit the New Mosque in the back of it, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It's on a raised platform near an old clothes market, you may have to ask directions. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüp mosque complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this Eyüp complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particular, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many boys-to-be-circumcised amongst it; a Friday might be a good day to do this).

Then, if you have the stamina, it might be nice to walk back to .. well, maybe all the way (five miles or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then on to Selimiye Mosque with its great view on the Golden Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque (passing through some very religious and lively neighbourhoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the view from the Golden Horn side). If you have some energy left you might go on to the University complex, and by then you are very close to the Beyazit mosque. A book market (it's small) is behind this good, unexceptional (nice courtyard though) mosque.

Once again go to Eminonü, but this time take the boat (those large ferries) to Üsküdar. You will arrive with a fine mosque in front, another one four hundred meters off to the right, slightly inland behind a traffic roundabout, a third, very small, at the sea front,. See the market stretching inland, walk about and don't forget to walk along the shore, maybe eating a fish meal in one of the bobbing boats along it. This is a good visit for late afternoon, early evening, fleeing the city. You will be joined by thousands of people going home from "town" but the way back will be on a near-empty ferry. The frequency of ferries will go down in the evening, so make sure there is a connection back

Go to the railroad station and find a Sirkeci-Halkali suburban train, and get out at (from memory, Yenikapi station). You will be quite close to Yedikule, a nice fortress, and will have fine views of the city walls from that. The trains leave every 15 minutes or so, the ride is peculiar (the material is bad, but if you are in luck every second stop another salesman will enter and try selling his wares, its fun. The ride is twenty minutes, half an hour. You may back from Yedikule into the city, just drifting. This is not a "must", but it can be great fun.

You will have missed the covered bazaar in all this. That is because you will get there anyhow. If you go to Beyazit and the book market you are almost at two of its many entrances. Try and find the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and its complex at the other side, its worth it. And after having explored the covered part, take a relaxing walk downhill, into the general direction of Eminonü, where it is "uncovered bazaar" all the way. And then cross the Galata bridge to see some things on the Northern side (for instance take the "tünel" teleferik ride up much of the hill (entrance close to the opposite side of Galata bridge, ask around), then continue to Taksim. Shops are of the international variety.

RECOMMENDED TRIPS OUT OF ISTANBUL

Kilyos Located by the Black-sea shore on the European side, Kilyos is an half-hour drive to Taksim under normal circumstances. The village has more almost a dozen private and public beaches, some of which require membership. Though there are ways of transportation to Kilyos with buses and dolmus, the best way is to use a private car, since the journey will take longer than usual when in summer.
Sile Located by the Black-Sea shore on the Anatolian side, Sile is a 45 mins. drive to Taksim. It is a village, growing rapidly, famous for its fish and special cotton fabric Sile Bezi (cloth of Sile). Similar to Kilyos, Sile also has its own private and public beaches. However, the dangerous sand type of the sea, and tides make it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for people who are not expert and cautious. Drowning, some of which resulted in deaths, occur every year.
The Princess Islands are a group of islands across the Anatolian side of Istanbul. "Buyukada", the biggest and most famous of them all, has ferry lines to Eminonu (on the European side) and Bostanci (on the Asian side) every day, on various hours.
Silivri

For more information on Istanbul, visit the source at Wikitravel

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Istanbul, Turkey