Destination: ROME, ITALY

UNDERSTAND ROME

THINGS TO SEE IN ROME

• The Colosseum - Expect a long queue and an even longer wait. You can skip the queue if you decide to take a tour, but if you don't want a tour, you can STILL skip the queue. If you walk across the street to the Roman Forum, you can buy a day-long pass,better still, a 7-day pass or a standard Colosseum + Palatine ticket. This pass gets you in to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, the Baths of Caracalla, and the catacombs. If you don't want to cram it all into one day, get the pass. Plus, it is nice to buy a slice of pizza and eat in the gardens of Palatine Hill.
  There are lots of people offering tours in English just outside the entrance to the Colosseum. Inside you can take a tour (English, Spanish, or German) every 30 minutes or so. The tours are given by knowledgeable archeologists, but they don't take you to any areas you couldn't visit on your own.

• The Pantheon - A marvel of ancient architecture, this ancient temple to all the gods is celebrated for its large dome, copied during Greek and Roman revival periods by such designers as Thomas Jefferson, who modeled his Monticello and the Rotunda at the University of Virginia on it.
  Built during the reign of the emperor Hadrian (AD 125-128), the Pantheon carries a dedication to Marcus Agrippa, who built the original structure on this spot in 27 BC. As it is still a functioning church, silence is requested during your visit. From inside the Pantheon, you'll see a hole in the dome; during the reign of Pope Urban VIII, the Pope ordered the bronze ceiling of the Pantheon's portico melted down. The bronze was used to make bombards to for the fortification of the Castel Sant' Angelo. Free admission.

• Roman Forum - If stones could talk: these hallowed ruins were the most powerful seat of government in the world. The Forum is much less crowded than the Colosseum and, from a historical perspective, much more interesting. Free admission, except for an audio guide, which is highly recommended. To stand in the political, legal and religious centre of the whole Roman Empire brings shivers down one's spine. It is the best way of imagining the splendour and glory of ancient Rome.

• Palatine Hill - right next to the Roman Forum, contains the ruins of several large villas that belonged to wealthy Roman families. You can buy a combined ticket for the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum here, avoiding the long lines at the Colosseum.

• Fori Imperiali - The inside of the fort is very similar to a museum, with a lot of rooms containing items in glass cases. It is a bit of a maze and takes time to orient yourself, but it is worth climbing to very top for a view of the city and the Vatican.

• The Capitoline Museums Also contain a good collection of classical art, as well as ancient sculpture. The Capitoline piazza, between the two museum buildings - designed by Michelangelo, is beautiful. Explore these museums, then head out the back of the square to the Forum, where you'll find the remains of the Temple of the Vestal Virgins, among many other buildings on the way to the Colosseum.

• Palazzo Massimo A magnificent collection of ancient Roman sculptures, mosaics and wall paintings, including the famous paintings from the Imperial-era villa discovered under the Villa Farnesina, as well as the bedroom from the Empress Livia's villa at Prima Porta. Located across the piazza from Termini, opposite the Baths of Diocetian.

• Galleria Borghese A small museum that concentrates on the quality rather than the size of its collection. There are some very notable works by Antonio Canova and Gian Lorenzo Bernini here. The number of people admitted is limited to 200 every 2 hours. Make a reservation on-line well in advance for the time slot you want. Admission costs 8.50€. No cameras are allowed.

• Villa Giulia Museum The most extensive collection of Etruscan art and artifacts anywhere, well worth the 4 euro admission charge. They do, however, make you lock up your camera. A difficult museum to find, but a lovely display in a beautiful villa setting.

• Vatican Museums

• St. Pietro - St Peter's - where the Pope resides. Long queues for entry, said to be the finest church on the planet.

• San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane - a very small and beautiful church, the first design commission of Francesco Borromini.

• Sant' Ivo della Sapienza - This little church is hard to find but well worth the extra effort. It is located only a block from Piazza Navona, but not usually visible from the street, as one must enter the courtyard of an old palazzo to reach the church. Sant'Ivo is a small church shaped like the Star of David, with an amazing star-shaped dome and whimsical steeple.

• Santa Maria del Popolo - with a couple of paintings by Caravaggio.

• San Luigi dei Francesi - This church is roughly halfway between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. It is most notable for a side chapel which contains three Caravaggio paintings, including "The Calling of St. Matthew."

• Sant'Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona - This lovely basilica church is small with an almost circular interior. It is undergoing rehabilitation and the facade and dome are hidden in scaffolding. It seems to be open only until noon.

• San Giovanni in Laterano - this is the cathedral church of Rome and first of the major basilicas. It's also the Pope's (as Bishop of Rome) Church. Be sure to check out the fourth century baptistry (still in use) and the medieval cloister.

• Santa Maria Maggiore - This ancient basilica crowns the top of the Esquiline Hill. Tons of gold decorate the interior.

• San Paolo fuori le Mura - also known as St Paul's Outside the Walls. This is on the outskirts of Rome in an otherwise drab modern neighborhood. The church is a faithful reconstruction of the ancient basilica which burned down in the early 1800s. Don't miss the medieval cloister, which survived the fire.

• S. Passera Even though it isn't worth a trip, this church can be a interesting deviation if you live or pass through its neighbourhood. This church is believed to be the grave of the Saints Ciro and Giovanni, killed during the time of the Emperor Diocletian. The church is now know as Saint Passera because of the several changes its name has undergone. The oringal name was Abba Cyrus and through Appaciro and then Appacero finally it got Pacera, that's very close to today's Passera. The building on top is a 3rd century building still visible in the lower floor and in the underground. The main part of the building dates back to the IX century as the frescoes on the higher floor. Some of th frescoes are too spoiled to be enjoyed, but some of them have recently been restored and depict the Saints Paolo, Pietro, Giovanni Battista and Giovanni Evangelista in the vault and Our Lady together with Jesus, Saints Giacomo and Antonio and the Archangel Michele in the apse. Downstairs there is a small quadrangular room and the underground, where the rest of the two Saints should be. Frescoes in these floor date back to XIV century but are almost completely ruined, but in the underground there are still visible III century traces of Roman age frescoes; in front of the stair you can enjoy a small bird, the Justice, and an athlete while in the vault some eight apex stars.

• San Clemente - a great little cathedral to visit, with an excavated older church below and a pagan temple below that. The only place in Rome to hear the underground river that flows beneath the city. Very close to the Colosseum.

• Santa Maria in Trastevere - one of the oldest churches in the city. The nave is lined with a mismatched collection of columns taken from ancient Roman buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics from the 13th century, arguably the finest mosaics in the city.

• Santa Maria degli Angeli - this church was built inside the former baths of Diocletian. Very light and airy inside. Note the unusual art on the outside doors.

• San Pietro in Vincoli - The chains that held St. Peter are displayed in a case before the altar. Also contains a statue of Moses created by Michelangelo. It's close to the Colosseum, but a little hard to find

• Santissima Trinità dei Monti - up above the Spanish Steps

• Santa Maria in Aracoeli - Ballroom-like church which crowns part of the Capitoline Hill. Don't be fooled by the plain stone exterior

• Santa Maria alla Minerva - This church is literally right behind the Pantheon. It is Rome's only gothic church, and well worth seeing, although its plain square façade makes it look inconspicuous.

• Il Gesù - not far from Piazza Venezia. The interior is Baroque art on steroids. Simply astounding.

• Sant'Ignazio - Not far from the Pantheon. A stunning example of Baroque art. The ceiling frescoes are especially fine, including a trompe l'oeuil dome.

• Capuchin Monastery - On Via Veneto, right by Piazza Barberini. The crypt of the church contains a macabre display - a series of chapels decorated with the bones of thousands of dead monks. The bones are glued to the walls and ceilings in bizarre and striking decorations.

• Largo di Torre Argentina - an excavation of four roman temples and Pompeys theater. The largo is also home to a large amount of cats which are tended by the local animal rights organization.

• Piazza di Trevi - where you can find the famous Fontana di Trevi. It's not a very big piazza and gets very crowded very quickly.

• Piazza di Spagna - under the "Spanish Steps"

• Piazza Navona - Used to be an ancient stadium built by the emperor Domitian and still retains the shape. The fountains are by Bernini and are very notable. Piazza Pasquino is just round the corner.

• Campo de' Fiori - not far from Piazza Navona. Used as a marketplace. In nearby via dei Giubbonari the salumeria Roscioli is worth checking out.

• Piazza Pasquino - piazza about 20m from Piazza Navona. There is a statue here named "Pasquino", apparently named after a tailor working nearby who had a reputation for complaining. The statue is now used as a place to hang messages, complaints and other opinions which has to be shared with the world. The piazza is also home to Cul de Sac, one of the best enoteca in Rome.

• Piazza del Popolo - with the twin churches

• Piazza della Minerva- a small piazza just behind the Pantheon. The centerpiece is a statue of an elephant by Bernini with an ancient obelisk on its back

• Piazza delle Coppelle

• Piazza di Sant'Ignazio- small and attractive piazza tucked away in a neighborhood near Pantheon

• Piazza Montecitorio - where you can find the building of the House or Representatives

• Piazza Colonna - where there is the building of the Italian Government, Palazzo Chigi. Also there is a marvelous carved column (hence the name) dating back to Imperial Rome

• Piazza Barberini - with Bernini's famous Triton Fountain. Via Veneto starts here too.

• Piazza della Rotonda - where you can see the Pantheon

• Piazza Venezia- more of an enormous traffic circle than a piazza, but a good central location. The centerpiece is the enormous Vittorio Emmanuale Monument (aka the Wedding Cake) with the Capitoline hill next door. Piazza Venezia is also very close to the Forum

• Piazza del Campidoglio - On top of the Capitol hill. It was designed by Michelangelo. The Capitoline Museum is housed in the palaces flanking the piazza. You can walk behind the palaces and to a wonderful viewpoint which overlooks the entire Forum

• Palazzo Venezia In the very heart of the city center, the building was for centuries ago the seat of the Venice embassy. Today it houses a museum and galleries art.

• Palazzo della Cancelleria

• Palazzo Farnese

• Palazzo della Sapienza. Close to Navona square, this building housed the University of Rome since the middle of the 15th century until 1935. The splendid interior courtyard was created by Giacomo della Porta. The inside church of St Ivo is one of the masterpieces of Architect Borromini.

• Palazzo Altemps. Simple and elegant lines make up this building, whose construction began in 1480 for Count Girolamo Riario, nephew of Papa Sisto IV and was taken up by architect Martino Longhi for the new owner, Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps.

• Palazzo Taverna - Via di Monte Giordano. The building is located in one of the most set-apart corners of the city center among the Navona square and Castel Sant Angelo. It served as residence for the Orsini Family. Nowatdays it is a private property and one can only glance at the courtyard and the inside amazing fountain erected in 1618 by architect Antonio Casoni. However, the brief moment is worth it.

• Palazzo Crivelli - Via dei Banchi vecchi, 22 This building also know as the Doll House was built in the 16th century. It is unique for the quantity and quality of the decorations - lions heads, satyrs and disfigured heads that adorn the facade attributed to the sculptor Giulio Mazzoni.

• Palazzo Spada Piazza Capo di Ferro - This building was erected in the 16th century by Giulio Merisi Caravaggio for Cardinal Capodiferro. One century later it was acquired by another powerful Cardinal, Bernardino Spada and was restored by Borromini.

• Palazzo Barberini

• Villa Farnesina This Renaissance house is in Trastevere, very close to the river and not far from the Vatican. You can tour several beautiful rooms covered in frescoes, including some by Raphael.

• Castel Sant'Angelo - Originally built between 135 and 139 AD by the emperor Hadrian for use as his mausoleum, it rivalled Augustus' mausoleum just across the Tiber (Tevere) River. The mausoleum was later used as a fortress and a prison until 1870, but now houses a museum.

• Trastevere

• Il Gianicolo

• Piramid, at the Piramid metro station.

THINGS TO DO IN ROME

• White Night - Various Events and plus shops and restaurants, museums stay open while the Roman Notte Bianca stages music, dance and theater events;

• Estate Romana Festival (Roman Summer Festival) - From late June through early September offers various musical events of jazz, rock, and classical music, and film, sport, theater and children's fun.