Destination: COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, on the island of Zealand. Copenhagen is one of Europe's most enjoyable cities. Situated on the Oresund strait, with Sweden just minutes away by train, it is a link between mainland Europe and Scandinavia, and has a wealth of cultural and entertaining things to see and do.

The city has a reputation for tolerance, the fascinating 'free city' of Christiania, a community of people who have tried to create an equal and just consensus-governed democracy for its people. There is more to here than Carlsberg and The Little Mermaid, and a trip to the wonderful Tivoli Gardens will leave the visitor in no doubt that this is a very special city.

DISTRICTS OF COPENHAGEN

Indre By, Downtown. The historical heart of Copenhagen, dotted with churches and historic buildings.
Christianshavn. Originally laid out as a working class neighbourhood 300 years ago, it is now a thriving beautiful area notable for its many canals. The Freetown of Christiania is situated in the northern part of Christianshavn.
Kastellet. One of the best preserved fortifications of its time in Europe - a witness that Copenhagen was for many years a heavily fortified city.
Holmen. North of Christianshavn, this area was until recently occupied by the military, but is now home to a lot of creative educational institutions as well as Copenhagen's new Opera House.
Vesterbro. This district still has its share of sex shops and sleazy hotels, but has evolved tremendiously the last years and is now one of the 'hippest' places to live, with cafes and bars dotted along its main artery, Istedgade.
Frederiksberg. A small town which originally formed around Frederiksberg castle, this area is still a separate municipality. Literally surrrounded by the City of Copenhagen, it has preserved a special conservative, up-scale feel.
Norrebro. The most vibrant part of Copenhagen, especially along the main artery, Norrebrogade, with a mix of immigrants, students, rebellious youngsters etc.
Osterbro. A cosy neighbourhood north of the center, less vibrant than Norrebro and Vesterbro, but less quaint than Frederiksberg.
North West, NV. A traditional and still quite worn down working class neighbourhood.

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THINGS TO SEE IN COPENHAGEN

There is free entrance to most museums once a week, mainly on Wednesdays.

Amalienborg Palace (home of the royal family). Changing of the guards each day at noon. (Marches from Rosenborg Castle barracks).
Assistant Cemetery (Assistens Kirkegard) in Norrebro with graves of many notable Danes, among others H.C.Andersen, Martin Andersen Nexo, Peter von Scholten, Soren Kierkegaard, H. C. Orsted, NHoP and Niels Bohr.
Bakkehus Museum (Bakkehusmuseet), a cultural history museum about the Danish Golden Age of Literature and four of its most prominent figures: Kamma Rahbek, Knud Lyne Rahbek, Adam Oehlenschläger, dating back to the 1620's.
Barbie Doll Museum, North-West, private collection of Barbie dolls from 1959 and on. The museum is only open by appointment with the owner, Lene Darlie Pedersen, who will also act as a guide.
Botanic Garden with its Palm House. (at Norreport Station)
Carlsberg Brewery. Guided tours are offered twice every week-day (11AM and 2PM). Take Bus No. 6 west from City Hall Square. The brewery is protected by two giant elephants at the gate.
Christiania, the world famous commune known as the free city in Christianshavn. The inhabitors arrange guided tours themselves.
Cisternerne - Museum of Modern Glass Art, opposite the zoo in Frederiksberg. The museum is established in old water cisterns. Hence the name.
Copenhagen Zoo, Frederiksberg.
The Little Mermaid, near Kastellet. The famous statue by Edvard Eriksen holds true to her name; she is only about 1.25 m (3.3 ft) high.
Museum Erotica, museum about sex, eroticism and pornography.
The Museum of Copenhagen , Vesterbro, museum about Copenhagen's history.
National Gallery (Statens Museum for Kunst) (near Norreport Station) - all standard exhibitions free.
The National Museum near the Parliament. Free entrance.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek - one of the foremost collections in Europe of ancient, medieval and modern art
Rosenborg Castle and Treasury
Slotsholmen with a small cluster of museums and sights, such as Christiansborg Palace and the ruins underneath dating back to the 12th century, The Danish Jewish Museum, The Theatre Museum, Thorvaldsens Museum, The Royal Danish Arsenal Museum and finally The Black Diamond (main site of the Royal Danish Library) with the Museum of Danish Cartoon Art and the National Museum of Photography.
Somods Bolcher, see candy being produced in the old-fashioned handmade tradition. A hit with the kids.
The Workers' Museum (Arbejdermuseet), museum about the working class and its history.

THINGS TO DO IN COPENHAGEN

The main tourist area is around Nyhavn while another popular area with many cafes and restaurants is around the old University.

For a range of interesting bars and cafes head to Norrebro (north and across the lakes from Norreport station.) From the main street Norrebrogade either turn left on Blågårds Plads (try Props for a cosy glass of wine on rickety chairs, or Cafe Apotek for interesting imported beers, quirky decor and cheap live music) or right onto Faelledvej to Sankt Hans Torv (as well as the obvious places on the square, there are plenty of places on small streets around, from traditional Danish pubs to trendy cocktail bars and microbreweries).

Vesterbro, Christianshavn (including Christiania), and Frederiksberg are other good, relatively lively areas to explore. Østerbro is quieter but there are some 'nice' places: the French cafe on the north side of the lake is a great place to enjoy a quiet beer while looking at swans; Panzon on Rosenvaengets Alle (near Trianglen) is a good place to splurge on a glass of wine. In the central shopping area head south of Stroget to parallel-running Straedet where there are a number of cosy cafes. If you stay near Norreport Station it is worthwhile to pay a visit to the bar/cafe Bankeråt in Ahlefeldtsgade, the "interior decoration" supplied by a local artist who places stuffed animalheads on dressed up mannequin dolls -eyecatching. Very popular place with the locals.

Note that Danish 'cafes' are equally ready to serve coffees or beer and wine. At most places the beer on tap is either Carlsberg or Tuborg. In either case there will be a choice of the light pilsner, and then a slightly redder Special or Classic. Some might also offer wheat or dark beer. A large beer costs 40 DKK or so most places in central Copenhagen, but some places on charge DKK 20 or so. Unless you come from elsewhere in Scandinavia don't frighten yourself by trying to work out what this costs in your home currency. If you are on a budget you could follow the example of local teenagers and get primed with bottled beer from a supermarket or kiosk (3-7 DKK for a 330 mL bottle). It is legal and very popular to drink beer in public (not on public transport, though), so buy a beer, sit on a park bench and enjoy the Danish life.

If you want to watch some rugby or Manchester United there are some expat Irish/British pubs in the inner city. The Globe on Norregade has a cosy library and does good food; The Dubliner near Amagertorv on Stroget (main walking street) is cavernous and raucous. Or try McGinty's, an authentic Scottish pub, on Vester Voldgade just 100m from the Town Hall Square, expecially pay it a visit when Manchester United plays as it is the Danish hangout for the Danish fans.

For a coastal city Copenhagen has surprisingly few places where you can enjoy a water view with your beer or coffee. Nyhavn is rather crowded and touristy (imitate the locals on a sunny day by buying beer from a kiosk and dangling your legs over the water). There are a couple of swanky places on Langelinie (near the little Mermaid) and the cafe at the base of the Black Diamond has a lovely outlook over the canal. In spring and summer a few cafes on the north side of the city lakes put out tables, chairs and blankets(!) by the water for beer-drinking and swan-watching.

SHOPPING IN COPENHAGEN

Check out Stroget, a pedestrian mall linking the streets of Ostergade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, and Frederiksberggade that runs through the center of the city from Radhuspladsen to Kgs Nytorv and Norreport.

Visit Fields, the biggest shopping centre in Scandinavia. Take the train to the Airport (Kastrup/Airport) or Malmo and get off at Orestad Station or go by the Metro to Vestamager and get off at Orestad station (though it should be noted that most, if not all, of the shops at Fields can be found on Stroget as well).

Good bets for quality one-stop shopping in the inner city: department stores Illum (on Amagertorv on Stroget, at the end of the shopping street Kobmagergade which runs south from Norreport st.) and Magasin du Nord (on Kongens Nytorv at the end of Stroget; you can enter direct from the Metro station).

For less mainstream shopping, some good areas to find interesting small boutiques are: around Studiestraede and Vestergade just north of the Radhuspladsen end of Stroget; inner Norrebro around Ravnsborggade and Sankt Hans Torv (walk north from Norreport station and turn right on the 2nd, 3rd or 4th street after crossing the lake); Nansensgade 5 minutes from Norreport Station - walk north from the station towards the lakes and turn left one block before the lakes); Vesterbrogade and Istedgade in Vesterbro (walk west from the main station on one of these roads -- you'll need to go a few blocks before hotels/sex shops/thai restaurants turn into more interesting territory); Osterbro around Classensgade and Willemoesgade (these come off the main road Osterbrogade directly across from the eastern end of the easternmost city lake, Sortedams So).

Best bets for out-of-hours shopping (apart from the ubiquitous 7-11 and small kiosks): the shops at Central station (offering books and CDs, camping gear, photographic equipment, cosmetics, gifts) are open until 8pm, 7 days a week. Large shopping centres and department stores (e.g. Fields, Fisketorvet, Illum, Magasin) open on Sundays around once a month (usually the first Sunday, right after everyone gets paid!) and more often at peak sale periods.

TRIPS OUT OF COPENHAGEN

Scania, Sweden, with Malmo and Lund is easily accessible through the Oresund bridge, which you can travel by train or car.
Amager is the island south of Copenhagen.
Dragor Is an old charming city ca. 20 km (12 mi) south of Copenhagen on the island of Amager close to the airport. Get there by bus.
Louisiana Museum for modern art. The museum is a 35 minutes train ride from Copenhagen near Humlebaek and houses one of Europes finest collections of modern art. With 10,000 m² (107,639 ft²) of exhibition space, a relaxed atmosphere and a setting in a beautiful old park, located half an hour north along the coast, it makes a good half or full-day excursion from Copenhagen.
Elsinore castle in Elsinore. The setting of Hamlet. A trip to Elsinore (Helsingor in Danish) is easely combined with a visit at the above-mentioned Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Elsinore is just three additional stops from Humlebaek on the trainline from Copenhagen.
Ordrupgaard in Charlottenlund. Art museum with paintings of Monet, Renoir, Dega, Pissarro, Gauguin, Hammershoi, Philipsen, and L.A.Ring.
Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde
Flakfortet. Artificial island and sea fortress. Has a restaurant, and beds. Get there by ferry from Nyhavn or sail there by yourself.
Middelgrundsfortet Sea fortress. The worlds largest artificial island. Has a restaurant and a hotel.

For more information on Copenhagen, visit the source at Wikitravel

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Copenhagen, Denmark